Seam for sewed articles.



W ARBETTER.

SEAM FOR SEWED ARTICLES.

FILED IUNEZ? 191 A 1 1%@,235@ Patented May 18, 1915.

Witnesses. Inventor.

/ Wolf Arbefler,

YWSMwW Attys TED STATES FATENT @FFIQEJ WOLF ARBETTER, OF ROXBURY, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO ARBETTER FELLING- MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

SEAM FOR SEWED ARTICLES.

amazes.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May 18, 1915.,

Application filed June 27, 1913. Serial No. 776,029.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, WOLF ARBETTER, a

edge, either raw or folded, of a superim-' posed layer or layers of fabric is attached to a base layer by blind stitches, or stitches entering end emerging from the same face of the work.

It is the object of the present invention to provide such a seam in a form which may be readily made by a machine, and which Wlll simulate so far as possible, the appearance of a felling seam produced by hand, and which at the same time will be strong and durable.

It is the object of the invention also to conceal so far as possible, the thread on the face of the work by constructing the seam so that the great mass of the thread is either embedded in the fabric or located beneath the superimposed edge.

The nature of the seam will appear more fully from the accompanying. description and drawings and will be particularly pointed out in the appended claims.

The drawings represent a preferred form of seam embodying this invention as made upon a machine of the Arbetter type pro vided with additional mechanism for the purpose. The Arbetter type of machine is shown for example, by the patentto Arbetter No. 830,699 granted Sept. 11, 1906.

In the drawings Figure 1 is a view in perspective of a base layer of material with a superimposed layer presenting a folded edge thereon disclosing a method of making the seam of this invention, the first two penetrations of the needle only havlng been made. Fig. 2 is a View similar to F 1g. 1 showing the seam partially completed. Fig. 3 is a plan view of a portion of a piece of work to indicate the general appearance upon the completion of the seam and the drawing up of the threads.

The seam herein illustrated may be made by hand or by any desired form of mechanism and as the invention does not reside in the means or apparatus employed in producing the seam it is unnecessary to describe any particular mechanism. The seam is preferably made, however, upon a machine of the Arbetter type already referred to. The feed of the machine is adjusted to cause the feed to take place only after each straight or parallel stitch and an additional stitch forming instrumentality is added to the machine in the way of a looper whose operation is to seize the bobbin thread and hold it in such a position that the needle in making the diagonal or inclined stitch will carry the needle thread around the bobbin thread.

In the drawings the base fabric is represented at 1 and may be taken as representing the fabric of a coat, dress or other article. The superimposed layer is represented at 2 and may be taken as representing the material of a lining or as the folded over edge of the main body of material itself. This superimposed layer may present either a raw or inturned edge and the latter is illustrated as in the case of a usual lining material of a garment.

In making the seam two threads are employed, a needle thread shown at 3 and a looper thread shown at 4. In the drawings the needle thread is illustrated as being inserted by means of a curved, eye pointed needle 5 such as used in the Arbetter machine but any suitable instrumentality may be used to insert the loops of needle thread. The looper thread may be inserted by means of the familiar rotary hook and inclosed bobbin and bobbin case as in the Arbetter machine but any suitable instrumentality may be used for manipulating this thread.

The construction of the seam will best be understood from a description of the process of its production. The seam of course, may begin at any point. It is shown in the drawings as beginning with the making of the diagonal or inclined stitch. The needle 5 enters beneath the edge of the superimposed layer 2 and passes in a direction diagonal or inclined to the edge up through the superimposed layer and out at the point 6. As the needle is retracted in the usual manner it throws out a loop and thereupon the bobbin thread is passed through this loop interlocking the two threads. The point of this first interlocking is shown at 7 and its location in the finished seam depends much upon the tension applied to the two threads. It is shown as drawn beneath the upper surface of the superimposed emerge at 9. The needle. thus enters at the top of the base layer and emerges from the same surface parallel and close, to the edge,

of the superimposed layer 2. The needle is retracted in the usual manner and throws out the loop 10 through which the bobbin thread 4 is then passed, thus interlocking The interlocking point s. shown in the drawings as above the surface,

the two threads.

of the base layer 1 but its location also depends upon the tension placed; upon the two threads.

The work and the needle are next given a relative longitudinal movement such for.

example, as would take place, in feeding the goods through a machine. The, bobb n thread is then carried back along side of the.

edge 2 and, positioned so that the needle upon making the next diagonal stitch will pass over the bobbin thread and then up through the superimposed layer 2 in the manner already described, The needle is shown thus passing overthe bobbin thread 1 and starting on the diagonal stitch in Fig.

1. The needle on this diagonal stitch comes.

out at a point 11 correspondingto the point 6 and upon its retraction throws out a loop through which the bobbin thread is passed, But the needle having passed over the bob bin thread prior to'making this diagonal stitch the needle thread and bobbin thread are interlocked at the point. 12 and. this interlocking point diverges the course of the bobbin thread so as to carry'and position it beneath the folded edge. The needle then makes the fourth stitch parallel and close to the superimposed edge and along sideof the last diagonal stitch entering the base layer at 13 and emerging at 14:. The needle in re. tracting throws out a loop 15 through which the bobbin thread is again passed. The making of the seam then proceeds, the remainder of the stitches being but. a repeti-r tion of those already described.

The straight and the diagonal stitches be ing opposite or along side of each other, that is, there being no relative longitudinal movement of the work and the needle between the making of these two stitches, the run'16 of bobbin thread extending froin the loop 15 to "the point 11 up over the edge of the superimposed layer will lie substantially at right angles to the edge. -The adjacent run 17 of the bobbin thread will lie parallel and close thereto because it is forced into this position by the interlocking of the bobbin and needle threads at the point 12.

In practice the straight stitches are made very close to the superimposed edge, the bobbin thread is drawn beneath the superimposed edge, by the interlocking points 12, and hence when the threads are tightened up by suitable tension the straight stitches are drawn beneath the edge of the superimposed layer so that the needle thread is practically entirely concealed from view and only. the runs.1.6 and 17 of the bobbin thread show extending in short parallel lines substantially at right angles to the edge as indicated in Fig. 3 of the. drawing. There is thus presented a close simulation of hand work.

. It preferableto have the runs of bobbin thread 16 and17 take. the position illustrated so far as possible, but the exact angle at which they extend over the thread and their exact angular relation to, each other will depend considerably upon the relative length of the straight and diagonal stitches,the distance between the stitches and the tension applied. 7

Having described my invention, what I claim as new andv desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1 Assam for sewed articles comprising a maln layer, a superimposed layer presenting.

an edge, a thread presenting two rows of loops, the loops. of one roweach entering and emerging from the top surface of the.

main layer close to said edge, the loops of thev second row entering'the superimposed layer under said edge and lying respectively opposite the firstloops and inclined thereto,

a second thread passingthrough said loops in alternation and in its course'from each loop of the first row tothe succeeding loop of'the second row extending around the first thread where the firstthre ad connects opposite loops of its two rows whereby the thread is caused toextend in substantially parallel double runs over the superimposed edge and whereby the balance of the two threads is substantially concealed from view.

2 A seamfor sewed articles comprising a mam layer, a superimposed layer presenting an edge, and two threads, the first thread presenting two rows of loops, the. loops of one row each entering and emerging from.

the top surface of the main layer parallel and close to said edge, the loops of the second row entering the superimposed layer under said edge, emerging from the top of said layer and lying inclined to' and respectively opposite the first loops, the second thread passing in sequence first'through an.

inclined loop then through a straight loop then through an inclined loop and then through a straight loop and so on, and in its passage from each straight to each succeeding inclined loop being interlocked with and drawn beneath the superimposed edge by the run of first thread extending between adj acent straight and inclined loops.

3. A seam for sewed articles comprising a main layer, a superimposed layer presenting an edge, and secured to said base layer by two interlocked threads, the first thread forming two rows of loops each loop of one row lying in the main layer and entering and emerging from the upper surface thereof, each loop of the other ro-w passing through the superimposed layer and emerging from the upper surface thereof, the loops in the superimposed layer being substantially opposite or along side of the loops in the main layer, and the second thread interlocking with the loops in the main layer and extending from the points of emergence of the loops in the superimposed layer over the edge of the superimposed layer with its runs in substantially straight parallel lines, whereby the appearance of a single row of short parallel stitches of the superimposed layer at the edge as in hand felling is pro duced.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

WOLF ARBETTER. Witnesses:

ELIZABETH MORRIS, THOMAS J. DRUMMOND.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. G. 

